Photo: Mathieu Dupuis

You can find ice climbing sites adapted to all tastes and levels in Gaspésie. The curious amateurs can start on gently inclined cascades while the most experienced ice climbers can take up the challenge of routes, renowned for their difficulty level. The more adventurous prefer to explore the valley bottoms or to climb one of the highest mountains in northern Quebec. Wherever you stick your crampons and ice axe, the sea and scarped mountains are right behind you, just look over your shoulder!

Ice climbing is generally practiced on the north side of the peninsula, in the region of Haute Gaspésie. The most renowned ice cascades are located in the Mont-Saint-Pierre area. You can also find some ice waterfalls in the parc national de la Gaspésie, in the réserve faunique de Matane and in the réserve faunique des Chic-Chocs.

Ice climbing and other mountain activities are currently under development in the region. In order to enhance the sites' layout, access and services offered to climbers while maintaining good relations with the land proprietors and parking access sites, some of the sites are now covered by an insurance policy offered by the Fédération québécoise de la montagne et de l'escalade (FQME).  www.fqme.qc.ca

The following sites are located on public land and are accessible to everyone, if the parking regulations are strictly followed.

• La Cigarette bleue, Marsoui
• Mur de Corneille, Mont-Saint-Pierre
• Le Mont-Saint-Pierre, Mont-Saint-Pierre

To get more information on authorized sites in the Parc national de la Gaspésie, please refer to the Ice climbing sites inventory list.

The following sites are located on property insured by the FQME. Climbers must have their FQME membership card to access them. They must also follow all parking and access path regulations.

• Les Barrières, Rivière-à-Claude
• La Gueule de requin, Mont-Saint-Pierre*
• Les Cavaliers du vent, L'Anse-Pleureuse
• Bébé surgelé, Gros-Morne

* All waterfalls mentioned above are located on the curb of Route 132 except for the La Gueule de Requin site where climbers need to take the access path. Please park your vehicle at the end of Georges-Émilile Cloutier Street, walk about 100 meters to the east and then to the south, following the markers. Make your way by following the brook up to the waterfall. Beware of avalanches.

For your safety, don't forget that…

• Ice climbers and mountaineers are exposed to avalanches as much as skiers.
• You often have to go through corridors and slopes to get to an ice waterfall.
• In the high mountain area, you must continually travel on big snow slopes.
• The snow slopes which have an incline between 30 and 60 degrees are considered as avalanche-prone terrain.
• Therefore, it is critical to have some basic knowledge of avalanche safety to minimize risks of accidents.
• All climbers should, like skiers, carry avalanche rescue equipment including an avalanche beacon (ARVA), a shovel and a probe when they are located on avalanche-prone terrain.

Some Detectable Signs of Instability : Recent avalanche activity on similarly oriented slopes (if natural avalanches occurred, it is possible that you could trigger one). Crackings and collapses in the snow cover while one is moving (indication of a weak layer). Recent episode of new snow accompanied by strong winds (wind-slab formation). A sudden warm-up period (weak cohesion of snow layers).

For more information on avalanches in Quebec and on available classes, contact the Centre d'avalanche de la Haute-Gaspésie: www.centreavalanche.qc.ca

Fédération Québécoise de la Montagne et de l'Escalade
4545, Avenue Pierre-de-Coubertin, Montréal (Québec) H1V 3R2
Tel: (514) 252-3004, 1 866 204-3763, Fax: (514) 252-3201
fqme@fqme.qc.ca   www.fqme.qc.ca